I read that one can apply one part
of epoxy glue to one workpiece and the other part to the other
workpiece, and then put them together, rather than mixing the two
parts first. Will this give a good glue joint? It would be a good
trick for a glue-up of many parts. -- Randy Wolfe
Chris Marshall: If the "trick"
you are trying to achieve by not premixing resin and hardener first
is to extend the open time of a glue-up (so the reaction doesn't have to begin
until the two components actually touch one another), maybe epoxy
isn't the right adhesive in the first place. For complicated and more
time-consuming glue-ups, I'd choose a slower-setting glue that buys
you more assembly time, such as hide glue. Otherwise, I'm just not
seeing the advantage here. You're definitely
compromising the chemical reaction that needs to take place for epoxy
to work properly--resin and hardener need to be blended together thoroughly. Why cut corners? Adhesive companies stake their
reputations on glue bond strength, and that's what you're paying for
in the first place — a strong glue joint. I would follow those directions on the package.
Tim Inman: This is a bad
practice. Although one might squeak by and get a bond that will hold,
chances are it won't be half as strong as it could be. It seems like
there is a "fear of glue" phenomenon happening right now. I
watched a popular PBS woodworking show the other night, and the
craftsman was being very skimpy with his glue application. He applied
only a sparingly thin coat to one side of the joint, and nothing to
the other side. He seemed to be more proud that his bench didn't get
a drip on it than he was worried that the joint might be a little
weaker for the tidiness. In my salad days, the masters in the shops
constantly reinforced that they wanted full wet glue on the joints --
and NO STARVED GLUE JOINTS. I have been a paid furniture restorer for
nearly 50 years now. In my time, I have seen many joints that failed
because they were starved for glue -- they did not have fully wetted
surfaces when they were clamped up. I have also seen many joints that
were over 100 years old that still held fine. I'll bet they weren't
starved. So, if you're doing fine work, don't skimp on the glue.
As for epoxy: Many instruction labels
recommend stirring for two minutes before using. Epoxy does not mix
as readily as it may appear. It is important to get a good mix. Epoxy
is not a catalyst hardening system. The two components, the hardener
and the resin, actually join together to form the polymer and make
the bond. If the two parts are out of balance, if the ratio is wrong,
strange things happen, and the "glue" isn't as strong as it
could be. You didn't ask about cyanoacrylates (also known as CA's or "superglues"),
but they do harden with a catalyst effect. So, with CA's, you can
apply glue to one surface and "kick" the other side to get
a fast bond. But if the glue doesn't get a chance to wet the fibers
on both sides before it sets, you still end up with a half-strong
joint.
Take your time, whatever glue you use,
and get both joint surfaces thoroughly wetted out with glue before
you do your clamp-up. Clean the excess and let it dry. Even though
you may never know the difference, your heirs will know 100 years
from now when your good work is still holding strong.