To Buy (a Mortiser) Or Not to Buy (A New Tool)? from WoodCentral

This discussion brings up the question: is a tool bargain ever not a tool bargain? - Editor

"I have an 'opportunity' to purchase a gently used Delta Mortiser (I believe a 14-651) with chisels. The guy is asking $200. It has been used maybe a couple of times. I have a mortising attachment to my drill press that I have used off and on. Nowadays, I mostly do loose tenon joinery -- so I use my router and then just square things up. So: good deal or no? Is it worth making an offer? I can get a new one from Amazon for $290; I already have the chisels. Thoughts?" - JL

Some of those who responded dared to say - gasp! - that the original woodworker did not need another tool. - Editor

"I can't believe I am saying this, but a tool you don't need is not a bargain at any price. In my case, I have a drill press and the attachment but no mortise. I make mortises occasionally and the attachment of the drill press does a perfectly acceptable job. I have a small shop, so another tool would be in my way when it was not in use. And I don't have $200 to spare at the moment. So if your case is similar to mine, my answer would be no. If my shop were bigger and I had some spare cash it might be yes. If I cut a lot of mortises it might be yes anyway. But, If I cut a lot of mortise and couldn't resist a mortiser, I would want to be sure I bought the right one and I know nothing about the one you are considering." - Barry I.

"Personally, I sold my Powermatic mortiser a few years ago and never looked back. If you buy a mortiser, get an XY vise as well. Also be prepared to spend some time sharpening the chisels if you want smooth walls. I never could (undoubtedly my own fault) get as good mortises with the hollow chisels as I do with the router. Mortisers also pretty much [stink] if you are working with curves. The higher end mortisers can kinda sorta do angles, but you can also make wedges. I guess what I am saying is that Barry nailed it." - Jesse C.

"That Delta is one of those I test drove in comparison shopping for a mortiser. It's a nice tool, although it wasn't my final choice. I had been doing mortises on my drill press, and was not happy with setup time. I bought a Shop Fox #1191 and have used it in building my household furniture. I would agree that there are alternatives to a mortiser, and a dado head or router are very effective. I let the setup considerations rule when I choose which method to use. If I need to place a mortise exactly on carefully drawn layout lines, then I break out my mortiser, because I can visually see and correct any deviation immediately. A cross slide vise lets me proceed incrementally while maintaining my settings. Otherwise, it's a [pain in the ...] to use a fence and clamp arrangement. To be honest, I'd offer $175 or less including the chisels, and be prepared to walk." - George

Others thought he should buy it. - Editor

"Only you can say if you should buy it or not. If you are going to be making a fair number of pieces and mortise/tenon is your style, why not go for it.? If you don't like/use it, sell it: how much will you lose? Not that much. I will say that a benchtop dedicated mortiser is a real step up from the drilll press add-on, and a freestanding floor mortiser is a big up grade from that (etc., etc.). Part of the fun of the hobby is to try new things. Stretch your wings a little. The earth will keep on turning either way." Roger L.

"If you ever plan to do Arts and Crafts furniture, a mortiser is an invaluable timesaver." - Dave B.

And what do you think, eZine readers? Is a tool bargain ever not a bargain? Have you ever made such a purchase yourself? - Editor

Cleaning a Wood Rasp

This discussion offered some useful thoughts on how to clean a rasp. - Editor

"I use a Nicholson #49 wood rasp to shape several parts while building Windsor chairs. The tool has become less effective at cutting because the teeth are loaded with small wood chips that are lodged tightly. How can I clean these chips from the rasp without also dulling the cutting teeth?" - Paul

He got quite a bit of advice for tools to use to clean this tool. - Editor

"Hardware stores sell small wire brushes that look like the Hulk's toothbrush; mine has them in the paint aisle, because painters use them for prep work. Don't get the steel bristles. I'd try the fiber bristles first, then the brass bristles if the fiber won't do it. If you have a choice, get brushes with wooden handles; I find the plastic-handled brushes flex more and thus work less effectively." - Bill H.

"Do you have a file card? Soft brush on one side, metal bristles on the other - should keep that rasp in good shape!" - Jesse C.

"I use a brass brush, and if that doesn't work, I use a file card as mentioned above. One or the other has always worked." - John L.

"Look in the same area you buy a file or rasp. You will find a file card and brush. Wood handle tool with very short, say 1/4", bristles of mild steel on one side and short fiber brush on the other side. Steel brush is softer than the file and will not damage the file teeth. - Galen V.

"Sandblast them, side benefit is sharpening of the teeth. Back in the late 50's when I worked at Nicholson, we sandblasted all files for a final sharpening before packaging. It also removed the rust from storing the files in water. They were stored in water between operations after heat treatment (not before). The rust rate is known and predictable in water compared to air that varies in humidity. A quick sandblast to clean and sharpen, and they were good to go. For heat treat they had to be dry as a bone because they were heated in molten lead, and a single drop of water would blow a lead pot apart with bad results." - Ray T.